Les Gorges de la Diosaz

An easier day today. Plus we actually travelled away from the upper Chamonix valley for a change. Just down by the narrows as you enter the valley you’ll find the village of Servoz, though unless you’re looking out for it you’ll be past it on the motorway before you know it. And the train passes through, so again, no need for the car (though we did today so that we could have a bit of an explore on the way back).


Our reason for heading down was to visit the Gorges de la Diosaz. A walk up a narrow canyon on walkways, sometimes suspended over the gorge itself, sometimes hacked out of the cliff face. However, the trail itself is well maintained and enclosed, so there were no worries about taking 4 year old Sam along.


The damp, spray filled atmosphere, and the shade from the sunshine allowed a very pleasant hour or so, escaping the heat of the day. Imagine that its also a fairly good place to go on a wet day, when you don’t fancy going out into the hills.


On the way back we took the scenic route via Vaudagne to Les Houches and had a look at the bolted rock climbing area and the Kids Adventure area. Then continuing along the back roads, we stopped at Les Gaillands and enjoyed an ice cream whilst watching the climbers on the bolted climbing routes there. Next we’ll be bringing the climbing gear too!

Trains, gondolas and luges

The market comes to Chamonix on a Saturday. Has to be said it’s a bit bigger and a fair bit better than the one that comes along to Fort William! If strange sausages wrapped in hairnets and stinky cheese, made even more stinky by the near 30 degrees heat, are your bag, then you’ll love the market.
Apart from just wondering around, it’s a fine spot to head to if you’re looking to buy fruit and veg (be warned, its easy to spend a small fortune), rotisserie chickens, herbs and spices, fresh fish, bread, flowers, honey, jams… and the list goes on. Just choose a cooler Saturday.


Being in town for a change, we popped across to the Parc de Loisirs and had a bash at the summer luge amongst other things. Have to say that having seen this on numerous visits over the years I’ve always wondered quite what the craic is. However, I can now tell you that its 5 Euros well spent. Being a bit of a hit all round, we found ourselves there again the following day with a multiple ride ticket. Me & Sam were definitely fastest over the 1.8km course.


Back to the hills today for another walk. Took the train from Argentière up the valley this time and through to Vallorcine. Great spot, although Le Buet probably has the edge. Right outside the train station there’s the new gondola to take you up to the Balme (Le Tour) ski area. Check out the mountain bike downhill course that runs under the gondola. Looks good.


Once at the top of the gondola its just a short walk to the Col des Possettes. Big view down the valley, a few cows in the meadow (just follow the bells) and an Alpage for a very civilised refreshment. Nice spot! From there its an easy and steadily downhill walk to the Charamillon gondola (more beer and ice cream opportunities). Being hardy folk, we continued on down towards Le Tour, taking time to stop and break out the sandwiches in a suitably scenic spot. Then on down to Montroc where hot feet, a need for ice cream and a convenient passing bus meant that the walk was cut short of Argentière but that the terrace at Hotel Le Dahu was reached much quicker. Mmmm!


Feeling quilty after a bit of (over) indulgence I headed out onto the Petite Balcon Nord for a blast on the mountain bike, while Caroline and the kids booked their place by the pool. An hour later I was in there cooling off with them. Another fantastic day out for the family in the Chamonix valley!

Cafe Gourmand

Doesn’t time fly when you’re having fun! The weather has really come good this last few days and, as ever, time has been flying by as we’ve been out there making the most of it.


Today’s choice was a walk up to Chalet Le Chapeau above Le Lavancher, which just a bit further down valley from Argentière. Whilst it would have been possible to use either the train (to La Joux) or the bus, or even walk down by the river to Le Lavancher, we gave the car a rare outing and drove there.


Pick up the path heading up into the forest at the top of the village and follow the signs. Depending on who you believe, its either 50 mins or 1hr 10 mins to Le Chapeau. I suspect a good pace would see you there a lot quicker than that, but if you’ve got a tired 4 year old in tow, its really hot, and you’ve got to stop and catch ants to look at in the bug viewer, allow a bit longer!

The chalet sits on the hillside overlooking the source de l’arveyon, and was allegedly the path of choice for the Victorians coming to look at the (then) larger Mer de Glace, before the coming of Montenvers and the transfer of traffic to the other flank. With a panorama looking up the snout of the glacier, round to Chamonix town in the valley below, round to La Flegere and the Aiguille Rouge peaks, the chalet is a stunning spot. What’s more, its really quiet, very friendly and there’s some great food at very (extraordinarily) reasonable prices. Sam and I recommend the tarte framboise!


Its only half an hour (bugs permitting) back to the car. Time for that elusive ice cream in Argentière (none at the chalet!) before heading back to the apartment to hit the pool in the heat of the late afternoon sun.

We saw quite a bit of the pool yesterday. In fact, with blue skies and rising temperatures we didn’t stray far from it all day.


Well, we were due a rest after Wednesday’s walk down from the top station of the telepherique at La Flegere. The path doesn’t start off too well, being quite steep as it descends the winter ski run. However, once close to the last uplift chair it detours away from the wide track into the woods and becomes a very pleasant track with a steady gradient. The cover of the trees keeps it cool, while the odd clearing allows for some great views down to Chamonix town and, of course, across to the Aiguille du Midi and Mont Blanc.


Look out for the path heading across to Chalet La Floria. Another improbable chalet location clinging to the hillside above the valley. One minute, a steady path through a steep forest, next minute tables, parasols, flowers galore, tarte myrtilles, cold beer and a great view to ponder while you take a wee break from another hectic day.


And while we’re on the subject of great places to take a break and enjoy something to eat and/or drink, seek out the Hotel La Prairie in Les Bois. Not really somewhere you’ll stumble across while out in the car, but ideally located if you’re following the mountain bike routes, or the easier walks, heading out from Chamonix. Try a Café Gourmand. It’ll give you a bit of a buzz!

Adrenaline Sports

Chamonix, a name synonymous with extreme adventure sports such as skiing, mountain biking, climbing and paragliding. However, you can forget all that. Been there, done it. Instead the in sport in the valley today is downhill scootering.


From Argentière we followed the track alongside the river, heading down the valley towards La Joux, through the steep narrows and then past Les Tines to the Parc des Paradis near the golf course. After a couple of shots on the zip wire and the Himalayan bridge it’s then a short scoot down by the Arve into Chamonix itself.


Both Barbie and Power Ranger faired well over the 5 mile course, with no major mishaps, though a little discretion was required through the steep bits above Les Tines, despite wearing helmets. And to celebrate it was Smartie ice creams all round, before heading back to the apartment and some post adrenaline sport r&r in the swimming pool.


So there you have it. Downhill scootering is where its at! And they’ve even got a special compartment on the train for carrying scooters (and those mountain bike thingys) back up the valley again.

The Sound of Thunder

Late afternoon and sat on the balcony watching and listening to a passing thunderstorm. Another pleasant walk today, this time over on the other side of the Col Des Montets.


Took the car over and parked in the large car park next to Le Buet railway station. Immediately across the road, we picked up the footpath towards the Cascade De Berard. Its easy going, first crossing the La Poya beginners drag lift and ski area and then meadows with grazing cows. Once into the forest, the going slowed up considerably due to the large numbers of wild strawberries and blueberries growing either side of the path.


A little further on and we soon came across the chalet by the waterfall. Real picture postcard stuff and the ideal location for the obligatory ice cream stop! We decided to continue up the path towards the refuge and stopped in a sunny glade by the icy cold river for lunch, before returning to the car via sur le rocher. Another really pleasant and fairly short walk through some fantastic scenery.

Called at the National Park office on the Col des Montets on the way back down. Interesting interpretation and well worth the stop, even more so if you’ve got a really good understanding of French. Not me then!


Going for a run seemed like a good idea on Friday. That was, however, until we chose to run up to Plan Joran on the Grand Montets. Any sane person would have realised that 700m straight up (opposite the apartment) was always a daft idea, but..! Unlike back home on, say Ben Nevis (half the reason for going out was to grab some much needed training for the Ben Race), the paths zig zag up the hillside keeping a nice even and runable gradient. Ouch!

On reaching the top we took a right turn and descended via the Alpage at the Chalets de la Pendant and then on down the Grand Balcon Nord route to Le Lavancher, returning to Argentière by the Petit Balcon Nord. By the time I reached Le Lavancher I was feeling totally dehydrated, dizzy and generally banjaxed. However, following on Nix’s heels, we were soon back at the apartment and soon it was all just a memory. 1hr 50 mins round trip. Needless to say, there was some time spent by the pool in the afternoon!

Finally gave in to the lure of the Quecha shop down near Sallanches yesterday. My halo remained firmly in place and I came away empty handed. Caroline, Jodie and Sam all scored big time however, with new trainers, jackets, over-trousers (we will be heading back to the Highlands at some point!) and t –shirts. On the way home we called in at the Parc Aventure at Le Fayet for an ice cream and a play on the swings. The narrow gauge railway was also running and lots of children were enjoying free rides round the park. Needless to say, it wasn’t long before Sam and Jodie were trundling round the park on the back of the trains too. A big hit!

Aiguille bagging

A no kids day today! They were off on a trip down with friends down to the Parc de Merlet at Les Houches today to go and see the animals with friends. So time for a quick walk up the Aiguillette des Posettes above Le Tour. A cracking walk despite the increasingly gloomy weather. A bit of a pea-souper on the summit and a wee bit chilly too, but glimpses of the views through the passing clouds gave an indication of how good the views must be on a clearer day.


There was also time to squeeze in a quick blast on the mountain bike round the upper Chamonix valley. Down to La Joux and then back up towards Le Tour on the Petit Balcon Nord. And back for a swim in the outdoor pool in the drizzle. Very refreshing!

Family walks and the outdoor pool!

Back in the apartment in Argentière again, having driven from the 850 miles or so from very near to Land’s End, having had a couple of weeks on the beach on our way south.


Despite the long journey and some less than welcoming weather on arrival on Sunday we were champing at the bit for some fresh air and exercise. Most of our visits so far have either been to do specific things in the summer, or to ski during the winter, so we are keen to explore the Chamonix valley.

Monday 14th July – Short walks near Argentière

Whilst the clouds and rain were still clearing I headed out for a quick run. And what a great little route it turned out to be. There’s a track following the bank of the river at the bottom of the village, and I took this warming up on the gentle downhill gradient close to the village of La Joux. There’s a footbridge over the River Arve here and then the first of the climbing back up to Le Lavancher. From here you pick up the Petit Balcon Nord and a great undulating path back to Argentière through the trees. Cracking 45 min outing!


The weather continued to improve and by mid afternoon the sun was making a most welcome appearance. For a gentle introduction for Sam and Jodie’s little legs we left the car in Le Tour and walked back to Argentière along the Petit Balcon Nord to Le Planet, and then followed the path down into the back of Argentière itself. A really pleasant walk, mostly downhill and great for an hour or two of fresh air. And this did of course mean that I had to get the mountain bike out and bike back up for the car afterwards. Any excuse! The easier way, especially if you’re without a car, is to make use of the local bus service and take the bus up to Le Tour.


Tuesday15th July – The Argentière Glacier


And so onto bigger (and higher) things. A quick ride on the Lognan telepherique at the Grand Montets and you’re at 2000m before you know it. From the top station, we followed the track out left towards the Argentiere Glacier, heading for the Point de Vue. (See walk no. 29 in “Mont Blanc Walks” by Hilary Sharp).


Although there’s a bit of height to gain, even 4 year old Sam managed it to the Glacier without too much difficulty. We opted for the more scenic and more challenging variation from the first viewpoint of the glacier by the tunnel entrance. Slightly challenging for little legs but with a firm grip on little hands and the occasional shove up a big boulder step and we made it to the viewpoint. A great spot to break out the packed lunch and take in the sun and the spectacular mountain views up the Argentière glacier. A slightly sobering thought in that the last time I walked up here was something like 22 years ago, heading for a climb up the NE face of Les Courtes.


The prospect of ice creams at the Refuge de Lognan tempted us to take an alternative route down. Nice though it was, we would probably have been better with the original plan of taking the path down to Les Chosalets as walking down the home run, the Pierre a Ric was tougher than envisaged as due to the rocky conditions underfoot. However, two 6 year olds and a 4 year old managed it quite admirably with barely a grumble.


Back at the apartment, the sun was still on the swimming pool. Needless to say it was sheer bliss after 6 hours on the go. Very satisfying to splash around in the pool and cast an eye up to the Refuge where just a short while before we’d been devouring ice creams.

Wednesday 16th July – Trains & Ice Caves

After yesterday’s exertions we felt obliged to take it a bit easier. Having been pestered to visit the ice caves at Montenvers on the Mer de Glace on the last 2 ski trips and successfully avoided it, now was the time to finally succumb to Jodie’s demands.


Again leaving the car behind, we took the train down to Chamonix and paid across large sums of Euros for the obligatory train ride up to Montenvers. Sunny spot, cracking views and a bit busy. And a notable lack of seats to sit down on. To escape the crowds we walked along the path away from the mayhem for a short while and found a nice quiet sunny spot with big mountain views to break out the packed lunch.


The trip down to the ice cave on the Mer de Glace glacier, first on the gondola and then on the elevated walkways and staircases was pleasant enough, and a big thrill for the kids. However, I have to say that the cave itself was a bit of a let down. If you’ve seen some of the ice sculptures to be found elsewhere, then the offerings here were a little, ... well, …pathetic.


Still, a cracking day out in the Chamonix valley that keeps the children happy, and we were back in the apartment in good time for another swim in the pool. A great way to wind down at the end of another busy day.