Ski Rental Partnership

Last week proved to be a busy one. The new floor is fully installed and the apartment is looking even better than ever. Despite the lack of camera, I managed to remember that technology has moved on in recent years and that I have a camera on my mobile. So here's a picture, albeit not of the usual standards, of the finished product. In case you're confused, that bright glare by the windows is the sun (it's probably been a while since you've seen it!)


We also established a new partnership with Sanglard Sports. StayInChamonix guests can now receive a 15% discount on ski hire from the Argentiere shop. Check out our web site for details.

The ski season isn't far away now, with snow filling in from about the 1900m contour. However, there's still plenty of sunshine in the valley and with the autumn leaves still hanging in there its a real pleasure being out. Despite being just below the snow line, rock climbers were making the most of it on Saturday, with an ascent of the Aiguillette D'Argentiere, high above the apartment.

The carpet is dead!

Great. Invest in an apartment in Argentiere so that you can spend lots of time in the fantastic surrounding mountains. Not so this week!

Have spent the last 3 days on my knees with a wallpaper scraper trying to clear the remains of the old carpet from the floor of the apartment. And the good news is that the mission has now been accomplished. The old carpet is now resting in the bottom of a skip in Chamonix and the fantastic new floor is taking shape nicely. Despite still having a fair bit to lay over the next couple of days, its already transformed the apartment, and its looking great. Would love to prove it with a photo with numb-nuts here has forgotten to bring his camera!

Its not all work, work, work. That would be a bit dull. Have at least managed to get out for a bike/run/swim over the last few days. The autumn leaves and the quiet trails through the Aiguille Rouge Nature Reserve above the apartment were pretty special!

It's snowing in Argentiere!

Leaving a snowy Glencoe to head to Argentiere at the weekend with a plan to replace the tired carpet in the apartment with a new laminate floor. I've got my running shorts at the ready and the mountain bike boxed, all ready for some exercise and fresh air. But having had a quick look at the web cams I'm wondering whether skis might not be a better idea!

View of Argentiere village courtesy of Chamonix.com

The Grand Montets at Lognan courtesy of CMB

Last year we were skiing on 1st December. Keep an eye on the web cams and keep your fingers crossed for another excellent start to the ski season.

Mountain Bike Tour du Mont Blanc

Just nicely back from last week’s Mountain Bike Tour of Mont Blanc. It all seemed like a good idea at the time. You know the thing. A quick saunter up some easy graded smooth surfaced track to the top of the pass, chill out in the sunshine for a while, then blast some sweet singletrack down the other side.

Well, we got it half right!

A week away from home, 8800 metres of climbing on the altimeter and 5 days/4 nights out on the tour, it’s a highly recommended classic. But its not a walk (or even a ride) in the park!

Here are some photos and a few words of description of our trip to inspire you.

Day 1
From our base in Argentiere, we set off in damp and chilly conditions down the riverside track to Chamonix. A gentle downhill gradient seemed like a very kind way to start the circuit. Once through Chamonix town, we rejoined the off-road at Les Gaillands and continued on down to Les Houches. Downhill over!Our chosen route then took us up the road through Les Houches towards Vaudagne, before leaving the lovely tarmac and hitting the first of many carry-climbs up to the Col de la Forclaz at 1533m. I’d love to say the effort was worth it, with stunning views back up the Chamonix Valley to Mont Blanc. But I can’t. ‘Pea-Soup’ conditions and a fine Scottish ‘mizzle’ favoured those with a good imagination.

The rather damp conditions also favoured not getting the map out too often. Just follow the downhill and at some point sooner or later, you’ll hit the tar on the road to Les Contamines. That is, if you haven’t hit the dirt track face first on the 600m of downhill!

Our first night out was at the Hotel Chemenaz in Les Contamines. Very bike friendly with a powerful hose for legs and bikes, and a superb drying room for sorting out 2 days of soaking kit belonging to 11 dishevelled bikers. And a big feed too!

Day 2
I always get nervous when plans change last minute. It kind of suggests that we didn’t really know where we were going in the first place. Surely not? However, with insider information from the biker hotel owner, we were promised a much better descent from the Col du Bonhomme to Les Chapieux. Whilst the democratic vote was being taken, someone forgot to mention that the revised route involved an extra road pass worthy of the Tour.

The route up towards the col is rideable in parts, and with the cloud slowly beginning to clear, we got our first glimpses of mountains since arriving in the Alps. Biking through high alpine meadows, with swirling clouds and high mountain views opening up all the time the big broad grins of satisfaction started to appear.

Only to suddenly disappear when we saw the snow on the Col du Bonhomme at 2329m. Bugger! At least the final carry up to the col gets the blood flowing, and there’s a small hut on the top to keep the windchill off bare white peely-wally legs.

Instead of heading through snow and cloud to the next col, we followed a bit of singletrack down to the south east, made for mountain biking (except for the middle vertical bit perhaps).

Following the watercourse down, the track got a little ‘interesting’, with a fairly high penalty clause for any offs. Once through the narrows the objective dangers came from cow sh*t rather than a 100 foot cliff. Slight less life threatening; equally undesirable.

Back at the tar, the news about the road pass was gently broken to us. Solace was found in a handy roadside hotel with strong coffee and apple tart. It tasted good half way up the Cormet de Roseland as well. And ¾ of the way up. And near the top. Burp!

Being mountain bikers, it was of course necessary to terrorise some poor motorist on the descent with an overtaking move on the outside of a blind bend, before scooting off onto some gorgeous grassy switchbacks and a cold beer at the Auberge de la Nova.

Life is good.

Day 3
Little can be said to recommend sharing a dormitory room with 9 other farting, snoring, weak bladdered bikers.

The road from Les Chapieux to la Ville des Glaciers is a rude awakening in the chill of an autumn morning. But nothing like the climb from there to the Col de la Seigne at 2516m. Fortunately, the weather was now behaving, and once through the cloud base, the inversion and the views to the Mont Blanc massif were magical. At last, we were back on plan; snoozing on the top of the pass in the midday sun (jackets required!)

The descent into Italy was mountain biking at its best. Look out for the footpath variation just before the Refuge Elisabetta Soldini. Smug smiles at lunch by the Lac de Combal were quickly lost once we started the carry climb up the TMB path. Just a mere 400m of ascent this time. Gratuitous though it seemed to add in this extra loop, the reason for the torture of the climb soon becomes apparent at the top.

The panorama over the Glacier du Miage and Mont Blanc is rather special, as is the long singletrack traversing descent towards the Courmayeur ski area at the Col Checroui.

The Val Ferret is also an impressive spot, and chances are we’ll be back to explore with the family next summer. The long uphill into a headwind hurt, as the length of the day began to take its toll on tired legs. Spurred on by stunning views and yet more cold beer, arrival at the Chalet Val Ferret at the head of the valley came soon enough.

Day 4
It’s a hard trip if you’re not a ‘morning person’. And you’ve woken up with a red-wine induced hangover.
From the Chalet it's out of the back door, granny gear up to the Refuge at 2062m, then a quick carry up to the Grand Col Ferret at 2537m. Views from the col of Mont Dolent and the Aiguille de Triolet serve as a reminder of the geography and the fact we’re on a circumnavigation. Just beyond lies the Argentiere Glacier, and our final destination back at the apartment.

The descent from the pass is just too fast and too much fun to think about stopping to take photos. Just take our word for it. And the word is ‘yeehar’!

Brake discs finally got a chance to cool off in the village of La Fouly. Having dawdled sufficiently with a coffee at the Refuge at La Peule we missed the supermarket and so had to settle for a Swiss banquet of Rosti. Tastes great, costs a fortune and sits on the gut like a brick.

If by this time the combined fatigue is tempting you to stay with the tarmac down the valley, don’t! Follow the TMB marked footpath on the far side of the river and enjoy some lovely mountain biking through the trees. Those of a nervous disposition may want to dismount and hold on to the safety chain where it crosses the ravine!

The final treat for the day was another 500m or so of tarmac climbing up to Champex. The easy gradient just means that it takes twice as long to climb to the idyllic lakeside setting – and the cold beer that awaits. Oh yeah!

Day 5
As if realising that we were getting a little tired of those mornings where its straight out the door and straight up a thousand or so metres of climbing, the trail from Champex starts off with something unusual – downhill. But boy, do you pay for it.

The track up the Bovine route starts easy enough. And then it turns into the hardest climb yet. Maybe the ‘man flu’ was wearing me down. Or maybe I was just plain and simple knackered. Regardless, I suffered big time with a Specialized Stumpjumper on my back over the 700m ascent.

Once again, the VTT Tour du Mont Blanc delivers another spectacular bit of track, just made for mad men on mountain bikes. Firstly on a narrow path traversing round a steep hillside, with nothing but the flat lands of Switzerland thousands of feet below. Then, 500m of singletrack descending with a challenging variety of rocks and roots to really test your sphincter control.

And of course, it all ends at a suitably positioned restaurant on the Col de la Forclaz (that’s a different one to Day 1).
At this point, for those easily led astray, the temptation of an easy tarmac finish can distract from the real business at hand. And it has to be said, that half of our motley crew showed a distinct of lack of moral fibre and followed the tar to Vallorcine and the Col des Montets.

The real mountain bikers amongst us did of course hang a left and climbed again, up to the reservoir Jeur Verte, on up to the telesiege Tete de Balme and finally the Col des Posettes. And from there, its downhill all the way to Argentiere and the apartment!

Winter Flights

A wee note to let you know that EasyJet have now released their winter flights. And from first glance, it appears that despite gloom & doom in the British Press and the ever spiraling cost of oil, you can still get to the Alps for a very reasonable price this coming winter.

Check out prices for flights from your local airport to Geneva with EasyJet.

We already have!

Me Tarzan, you Jane...

One final bit of fun before the long journey back to the Highlands. Back down to Chamonix again and the Parc de Loisirs for some jungle fun on the roped course through the trees.


With 3 different levels in the Parcours D'Aventure its possible for wee Sam to have a shot on his very own course through the trees, with a watchful eye being kept from a very safe spot on terra firma right next to him. Despite some slight concern that he wouldn't be quite so bold when it came to it, Sam loved the 'mini foret' and chances are he'll be moving on up the grade to the petit foret as soon as age and height permit.


Jodie meanwhile climbed high from the start on the 'Petit Foret' course, with me in tow keeping a close eye on the karabiners and safety procedures. And what great fun it was too! Climbing steep ladders (and a climbing wall), traversing high wires and suspended logs, swinging into cargo nets, and probably best of all, the zip wires. And all without batting an eyelid! No Fear!


Not sure whether you're supposed to or not, but we enjoyed it so much that we went back round many of the sections for a second go! And the parc is open till the end of October, so if we get chance in October and the weather holds there's a very good chance that we'll be back for more very soon.


As the course is located in the trees at the top of the Planards ski run, just on the outskirts of Chamonix, you need to catch the chairlift to get up to it. But this also means that on the way down, there's another run on the summer luge included in the price of the ticket!

So that's all for this trip to Argentiere and the Chamonix valley. Back again in a few weeks with the mountain bikes to have a go at the Tour of Mont Blanc.

Les Gorges de la Diosaz

An easier day today. Plus we actually travelled away from the upper Chamonix valley for a change. Just down by the narrows as you enter the valley you’ll find the village of Servoz, though unless you’re looking out for it you’ll be past it on the motorway before you know it. And the train passes through, so again, no need for the car (though we did today so that we could have a bit of an explore on the way back).


Our reason for heading down was to visit the Gorges de la Diosaz. A walk up a narrow canyon on walkways, sometimes suspended over the gorge itself, sometimes hacked out of the cliff face. However, the trail itself is well maintained and enclosed, so there were no worries about taking 4 year old Sam along.


The damp, spray filled atmosphere, and the shade from the sunshine allowed a very pleasant hour or so, escaping the heat of the day. Imagine that its also a fairly good place to go on a wet day, when you don’t fancy going out into the hills.


On the way back we took the scenic route via Vaudagne to Les Houches and had a look at the bolted rock climbing area and the Kids Adventure area. Then continuing along the back roads, we stopped at Les Gaillands and enjoyed an ice cream whilst watching the climbers on the bolted climbing routes there. Next we’ll be bringing the climbing gear too!

Trains, gondolas and luges

The market comes to Chamonix on a Saturday. Has to be said it’s a bit bigger and a fair bit better than the one that comes along to Fort William! If strange sausages wrapped in hairnets and stinky cheese, made even more stinky by the near 30 degrees heat, are your bag, then you’ll love the market.
Apart from just wondering around, it’s a fine spot to head to if you’re looking to buy fruit and veg (be warned, its easy to spend a small fortune), rotisserie chickens, herbs and spices, fresh fish, bread, flowers, honey, jams… and the list goes on. Just choose a cooler Saturday.


Being in town for a change, we popped across to the Parc de Loisirs and had a bash at the summer luge amongst other things. Have to say that having seen this on numerous visits over the years I’ve always wondered quite what the craic is. However, I can now tell you that its 5 Euros well spent. Being a bit of a hit all round, we found ourselves there again the following day with a multiple ride ticket. Me & Sam were definitely fastest over the 1.8km course.


Back to the hills today for another walk. Took the train from Argentière up the valley this time and through to Vallorcine. Great spot, although Le Buet probably has the edge. Right outside the train station there’s the new gondola to take you up to the Balme (Le Tour) ski area. Check out the mountain bike downhill course that runs under the gondola. Looks good.


Once at the top of the gondola its just a short walk to the Col des Possettes. Big view down the valley, a few cows in the meadow (just follow the bells) and an Alpage for a very civilised refreshment. Nice spot! From there its an easy and steadily downhill walk to the Charamillon gondola (more beer and ice cream opportunities). Being hardy folk, we continued on down towards Le Tour, taking time to stop and break out the sandwiches in a suitably scenic spot. Then on down to Montroc where hot feet, a need for ice cream and a convenient passing bus meant that the walk was cut short of Argentière but that the terrace at Hotel Le Dahu was reached much quicker. Mmmm!


Feeling quilty after a bit of (over) indulgence I headed out onto the Petite Balcon Nord for a blast on the mountain bike, while Caroline and the kids booked their place by the pool. An hour later I was in there cooling off with them. Another fantastic day out for the family in the Chamonix valley!

Cafe Gourmand

Doesn’t time fly when you’re having fun! The weather has really come good this last few days and, as ever, time has been flying by as we’ve been out there making the most of it.


Today’s choice was a walk up to Chalet Le Chapeau above Le Lavancher, which just a bit further down valley from Argentière. Whilst it would have been possible to use either the train (to La Joux) or the bus, or even walk down by the river to Le Lavancher, we gave the car a rare outing and drove there.


Pick up the path heading up into the forest at the top of the village and follow the signs. Depending on who you believe, its either 50 mins or 1hr 10 mins to Le Chapeau. I suspect a good pace would see you there a lot quicker than that, but if you’ve got a tired 4 year old in tow, its really hot, and you’ve got to stop and catch ants to look at in the bug viewer, allow a bit longer!

The chalet sits on the hillside overlooking the source de l’arveyon, and was allegedly the path of choice for the Victorians coming to look at the (then) larger Mer de Glace, before the coming of Montenvers and the transfer of traffic to the other flank. With a panorama looking up the snout of the glacier, round to Chamonix town in the valley below, round to La Flegere and the Aiguille Rouge peaks, the chalet is a stunning spot. What’s more, its really quiet, very friendly and there’s some great food at very (extraordinarily) reasonable prices. Sam and I recommend the tarte framboise!


Its only half an hour (bugs permitting) back to the car. Time for that elusive ice cream in Argentière (none at the chalet!) before heading back to the apartment to hit the pool in the heat of the late afternoon sun.

We saw quite a bit of the pool yesterday. In fact, with blue skies and rising temperatures we didn’t stray far from it all day.


Well, we were due a rest after Wednesday’s walk down from the top station of the telepherique at La Flegere. The path doesn’t start off too well, being quite steep as it descends the winter ski run. However, once close to the last uplift chair it detours away from the wide track into the woods and becomes a very pleasant track with a steady gradient. The cover of the trees keeps it cool, while the odd clearing allows for some great views down to Chamonix town and, of course, across to the Aiguille du Midi and Mont Blanc.


Look out for the path heading across to Chalet La Floria. Another improbable chalet location clinging to the hillside above the valley. One minute, a steady path through a steep forest, next minute tables, parasols, flowers galore, tarte myrtilles, cold beer and a great view to ponder while you take a wee break from another hectic day.


And while we’re on the subject of great places to take a break and enjoy something to eat and/or drink, seek out the Hotel La Prairie in Les Bois. Not really somewhere you’ll stumble across while out in the car, but ideally located if you’re following the mountain bike routes, or the easier walks, heading out from Chamonix. Try a Café Gourmand. It’ll give you a bit of a buzz!